Yarn Substitute Finder

How to substitute yarn without ruining your project

Swapping one yarn for another is safe as long as you match the things that actually change how the finished fabric behaves. Work through these in order and you'll avoid the two most common substitution mistakes: a garment that comes out the wrong size, and running out of yarn halfway through.

1. Find the weight category. Check the pattern for a name (worsted, DK, fingering) or a CYC number (0 to 7 on the yarn label). Use the tool above if you only know the yarn's brand name.
2. Match the gauge, not just the category label. Two yarns in the same category can still knit up slightly differently. Always knit a swatch with your chosen substitute and compare it to the pattern's stated gauge before casting on the real project.
3. Match the fiber content where it matters. A wool pattern relies on wool's stretch and blocking behavior; swapping in 100% cotton or acrylic can change drape, warmth, and how well the finished piece holds its shape. See the fiber notes further down this page.
4. Match the yardage, not the number of skeins. Two skeins can be labeled the same weight (100g) but hold very different lengths of yarn. Always compare total yards or meters needed, not skein count. The calculator above converts this for you once you've picked a substitute.
5. Check the needle or hook size on the label as a starting point, then adjust by a size up or down if your gauge swatch comes out too tight or too loose.

Standard yarn weight categories (CYC system)

This is the Craft Yarn Council's standard yarn weight system, the same 0 to 7 numbering system printed on most yarn labels sold in the US. Any two yarns in the same numbered category are generally safe substitutes for each other on the gauge and needle/hook front; always confirm fiber content and yardage separately. See the full yarn weight chart for a printable standalone version of this table plus tips for identifying an unlabeled yarn.

Source: Craft Yarn Council standard yarn weight system. Yardage-per-100g figures above are typical ranges only; actual yardage varies by fiber, ply and spin, so always check the specific skein's own label for its exact yardage.

Commonly available yarns by weight category

A few widely stocked yarns for each category, so you have a starting point even before you use the search box above. Every yarn label prints its own CYC weight number, usually inside a small skein icon, so always double-check the number on the actual yarn you're holding rather than relying on a name alone; brands occasionally reformulate a line. See common yarn brands by weight category for a longer list with fiber notes for each one.

• Category 1, Super Fine (sock/fingering): Knit Picks Palette (100% wool), Malabrigo Sock (100% merino wool), Cascade Heritage (75% wool, 25% nylon)
• Category 2, Fine (sport): Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Sport (100% wool), Cascade 220 Sport (100% Peruvian Highland wool)
• Category 3, Light (DK): Knit Picks Wool of the Andes DK (100% wool), Rowan Handknit Cotton (100% cotton)
• Category 4, Medium (worsted/Aran): Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic), Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic, 20% wool), Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland wool), Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic)
• Category 5, Bulky: Lion Brand Hometown USA (100% acrylic)
• Category 6, Super Bulky: Bernat Blanket (100% polyester), Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (80% acrylic, 20% wool)

Why fiber content matters as much as weight

Two yarns can share the exact same weight category and still behave very differently on the needles, because fiber content changes how the yarn stretches, drapes and blocks.

• Wool has natural elasticity and blocks well, which is why most patterns with cables, colorwork or fitted shaping are written for it. A wool-to-acrylic substitute in these patterns often loses stitch definition and won't block into shape the same way.
• Cotton has almost no stretch and is heavier per yard than wool, so a cotton substitute for a wool pattern usually produces a longer, droopier fabric. Cotton is a safe substitute for other plant fibers (linen, bamboo, hemp blends) in the same weight category.
• Acrylic behaves closer to wool than cotton does for most patterns, doesn't block as dramatically as wool, and is machine washable, which makes it a common budget substitute for wool in categories 4 to 6.
• Blends split the difference. A wool/acrylic blend like Lion Brand Wool-Ease behaves closer to pure wool than pure acrylic does, while still being easier to care for.

Common substitution mistakes to avoid

Most bad substitutions come down to skipping one of a handful of checks, not picking a genuinely wrong yarn.

• Trusting the skein count instead of the yardage. Two skeins from different brands can both weigh 100g and still hold very different lengths of yarn, so a pattern that calls for "5 skeins" of one yarn does not automatically mean 5 skeins of your substitute; convert to total yards or meters first.
• Skipping the gauge swatch because the label says the same category. The category ranges above are wide on purpose, and a yarn's actual gauge depends on its specific spin and fiber, not just its category number.
• Ignoring how a fiber swap changes drape and blocking, especially in a fitted garment, a lace shawl meant to be pinned out, or anything with cables that rely on wool's memory to stay crisp.
• Buying exactly the calculated skein count with no buffer. Dye lots vary between batches, and running one skein short mid-project on a discontinued colorway can be far more expensive than buying one extra skein up front.

Converting yardage when you switch yarn weights entirely

Sometimes you're not just swapping brands, you're deliberately going up or down a weight category, for example using a DK yarn instead of the worsted the pattern calls for. This changes both your gauge and how much yarn you need, so it takes a bit more than the skein calculator above.

Going down a weight (say, worsted to DK) generally means you'll knit at a tighter gauge with smaller needles, and you'll need roughly 15-25% more yardage to cover the same finished measurements, since a thinner yarn takes more length to build the same area of fabric. Going up a weight works the other way: expect to use noticeably less total yardage, but you'll need to recheck sizing carefully since row and stitch counts from the original pattern won't transfer directly. Either direction, swatch first, since the exact percentage depends on the specific stitch pattern and how far apart the two weights are.